There are many people who stay in Hong Kong for one or two days. Most likely as a stopover. On the other hand, there a few people who really are fallen in love with Hong Kong – like Clemens. He describes his love on his blog anekdotique. It makes a lot of joy to read his texts, especially when you already have been there.
For me, it was obvious to spend more than just one or two days in Hong Kong as I know that some cities need time to discover. Especially city states.
Hong Kong is – like Macau – a special administrative region of the People’s Republic of China. It is located on China’s south coast, close to Shenzhen and the Guangdong province.
I guess most of the people think Hong Kong is just this one picture everybody has in mind: The variety of skyscrapers, a huge mountain in the back and Victoria harbour in the front.
But Hong Kong is so much more! There are three main areas: Hong Kong Island, Kowloon Peninsula and New Territories. Besides, there are innumerable islands of which Lantau Island is probably most known.
Hong Kong is mostly mountainous and just ~25% of the landmass is yet developed.
Since Clemens describes Hong Kong so well, I would just like to add some of my impressions.
I didn’t fall in love at the first sight. And I never fall in love with Hong Kong City, even after a few days. It took some time to get warm with the cold city centre and main tourist places. But it took just a second to adore all the other beautiful, impressive or fascinating aspects of Hong Kong SAR.
As I said before, Hong Kong is much more than high buildings and a gateway to China. Of course, it is pretty impressive when you need to put your head back in your neck to see the end of a house. It reminds you at New York City. Or better: Manhattan. Hong Kong is more extreme. It’s not just one area with skyscrapers. No, they are everywhere! And the best part is the scenery. The tall mountains in the back and the natural seaside create an exceptional atmosphere.
The classics are the Avenue of Stars, Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade, the Symphony of Lights (it was a disappointment), Kowloon-Canton Railway Clock Tower, Temple Street Night Market (I’ve seen better night markets) and The Peak. Unfortunately the peak tram wasn’t operating. Hence we needed to walked up to the “highest” point. The climbing was awesome. The way was very steep but we had great fews. I prefer these than the few at the peak.
On the way down, we discovered the Central-Midlevels-Escalator. As Hong Kong is steep, they built an escalator from Central up to the Midlevels. It leads you past antique shops, traditional stores and bars. It is pretty long and is frequently used. Early in the morning, it brings the people down and from the late morning to midnight it helps to climb the mountain.
Now, to the places where you need to go
My favourite route through Hong Kong is the way from Nan Lian Garden and the Chi Lin Nunnery to Mong Kog passing Lok Fu and of course the Kowloon Walled City Park.
Nan Lian Garden in Diamond Hill is a Chinese garden designed in the Tang dynasty style. It is a public garden and containes permenant exhibitions like rocks and Chinese timber architecture.
Strolling through the park is really relaxing. You can easily cross the street to get to the Chi Lin Nunnery and its nice lotus flower pond.
Chi Lin Nunnery is a wooden complex and also built in Tang dynasty style. You can find lovely Buddhist relicts which are so much more enjoyable than the Big Buddha on Lantau Island.
After walking through a busy quarter you might reach Kowloon Walled City Park. For me, you need to go there to truly understand Hong Kong.
Everybody knows that Hong Kong has been British for a long time. And you still feel and see the British impact. Like the queuing and the double decker buses. But again: Hong Kong is so much more!
Kowloon Walled City Park sits exactly on the same site of the former Walled City. It is divided into eight areas. Each of them features a landscape with lovely and elegantly characteristics. The landscape features fit perfectly.
The park was opened in 1995 and was awarded a Diploma at the IGO Stuttgart EXPO 93.
In the centre of the park stands the Yamen which allows visitors to get a glimpse of the physical appearance of Kowloon Walled City.
Originally, this site was used by imperial course officials. This was as early as in the 15th century. Did you expected such a place in Hong Kong?! During the years, it was established. In 1810, a fort was built. In 1841, the Walled City became more important to China’s maritime defence. Five years later, the Qing government started to construct a walled garrison city. It had four gates and six watchtowers. In 1847, Kowloon Walled City was surrounded by strong stonewalls and occupied an area of 6.5 acres.
The British troops took over the Walled City in 1899. They expelled the officials and soldiers. Thus, Walled City was deprived of the rule of law as well as of administration. Hence, Kowloon Walled City became a so called semi-lawless slum.
But that’s not the end of the story. Japanese troops demolished the wall as they needed stones to extent their nearby airport. The Japanese occupation ended after four years in 1945. This let to the fact of high rise tenements over Kowloon Walled City. The houses were built without any government supervision. The people tapped the main pipes but have been well organised. You could found stores, fabrics and even dentists in the Walled City. But it was also very dangerous there as houses had been built arbitrary and very close.
Until 1987 China felt ashamed for this gloomy area. But then, China and Hong Kong agreed to demolish the Walled City and to develop a park.
33,000 people lived in Kowloon Walled City. Some came there due to lower rent. Other, because they could live there outlawed.
During the demolition – which was completed in 1994 – some existing buildings, remnants and relics of the former walled city were found.
Here, you can get more impressions of Kowloon Walled City.
Big Buddha and Tai O – Lantau Island
Dimsum
… And Macau
guldenschuh 